The Tower Bridge crossing the Thames.

London

An unexpected detour en route to Greece.

At the height of the tourist season, faced with unanswered demands for salary increases in the wake of 9/11, the Gulf War 2 and the SARS outbreak, the union of British Airways employees on July 19 decided to take matters into their own hands and went on strike for a day. I don't know if anyone could have predicted the consequences, but long lines built, and flights delays ensued, with missed connections and flaring tempers increasing throughout the day. Complications of the strike cycled over and over on themselves in a vicious circle of chaos until all Heathrow flights were cancelled until morning. Left in place were huge backlogs of passengers still needing to get to their destinations.

Saturday, July 19, 2003, just so happens to be the evening Sukanya and myself were to land in Heathrow before departing to Athens for our two-week trip to Greece. Having been given no news of the situation en route, the terminal was barren when we entered, and the single BA employee at the empty check-in counter explained to us the situation. She rescheduled us on a flight to Athens the next day, and gave us the option of spending the night on the floor in the airport, or going to a hotel in London. That choice was easy, so we went to one of the hotel reservation booths in the airport and were set up with a place in the Bayswater district. After purchasing a weekend subway pass we were in business. Personally, I was glad to have a little walking-around time because the flight from San Francisco, via Toronto, had already been a long one.

Vacation Links: London Stopover - Pelion Peninsula - Classical Ruins - Aegean Islands



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"Mind the gap! Please, mind the gap!" The friendly overhead announcer urged us not to trip in the space between the subway car and the deck. Many times. At every stop. So, here our vacation begins a bit earlier than expected. The London subway, aka Underground, aka "Tube," efficiently connects Heathrow Airport to downtown, and it took about an hour to get to our hotel on Bayswater which was a fairly ethnic neighborhood on the north side of Hyde Park.

Figuring, incorrectly, we only had a few hours in London and would be headed to Greece the next morning, we made the best of our time here and headed out to see Big Ben and Westminster Abbey. It was about midnight we began our nighttime tour. They keep Big Ben, and most other notable buildings in the area, beautifully lit through the night, but Westminster Abbey is eerily left in the dark. It had been awhile since we ate, and we were getting pretty hungry about now. Despite what the hotel receptionist said, there was no sign of any open restaurants around here.

So from Big Ben we headed along St. James Park, along Cobblestone streets, toward Buckingham palace. They don't light this one up either-- the Queen is getting her rest! And no changing of the guard at this hour. After I loudly pronounced, "man, it sure looks easy to sneak in there," we passed a couple cops tucked away in the shadows on the other side of the fence.

All this walking was making us more hungry. So we got some info from a passerby that by following Picadilly Street, from the back side of Buckingham Palace, starting at Wellington Arch, over to Picadilly Circus, there should be plenty of eating places still open. London was pretty dead up to here; this is where Picadilly starts showing signs of life.

Picadilly Circus, in the wee hours of the morning. It's hard to see in this picture, since all nighttime shots are limited by having to find a flat stable surface to place the camera, but there were TONS of people out partying. Now in the states, I think of Burger King as a place I stop at on the way to Fresno when I can't find a Carl's Jr. But in London's hip cultural elite it was the hottest ticket in town, so crowded we couldn't buy a drink or burger to save our life. So we found a nice little sandwich and pastry bistro around the corner with country-style bread, that had no lines.

North of Picadilly we headed up into the London's Soho district, where bars and nightclubs rage through the night.

Tired of walking... and the Tube is closed after midnight... it's time to catch a double-decker bus back to our hotel.

Whoa... speeding through London at night! Naturally we had to sit on the top. It's kinda funky being way up here like that, and I hate to think what the ride would have been like if they had a Muni driver at the wheel.

What are those two crazy yanks doing? They're taking pictures of everything!! Here's our reflection in the front window of the bus, and we're heading back to our hotel sometime after 4:00 in the morning with dawn's light just beginning to show. What's worse, we were taking so many pictures we missed our stop so had to backtrack a few blocks to Bayswater and Queensway. That means just an hour or two of sleep before catching the Underground to Heathrow after daybreak...

...Mind the gap... mind the gap... mind the gap!!!



Arriving back in Heathrow, where last night it had been strangely empty, today [Sunday, July 20] it was a madhouse. Long story short, we were told to pick up boarding passes in the wrong terminal, where it was crazy enough already, but when we got to the right one, Terminal 4, it was a packed asylum with immobile lines not going anywhere, decent families arguing with police about where they were supposed to go, and people billowing outside onto streets where cars were no longer able to enter. By the time we were able to push ahead to an open check-in window our flight had been closed, and we couldn't reschedule another.

One thing I learned about the British is that they've invented every possible way to say "I'm sorry, I can't do that" without actually making any attempts to problem solve. They simply won't do anything that isn't carefully spelled out in their job description. In times of order it all goes very smoothly. But once a little craziness enters the system things quickly fall apart and they keep a stiff upper lip but panic was in their eyes. I think I gained a little insight on why several lifeboats on the Titanic went unfilled. People were standing in lines all over the place to rebook their flights-- no one was sure which one went where, and none were moving. So we rebooked another hotel near Victoria Station. Even just trying to leave the airport the exits were blocked by the police, and had to reach the Underground in a circuitous way. Once we got to our hotel in the mid-afternoon, after a long and grudging walk to find it, carrying all our luggage. We just went to bed and slept until morning, getting up only once late at night to grab some dinner and go for a little stroll around the block.



So are we finally in Greece? Not quite... this is London, day three [Monday, July 21]. We went to the British Airways office in Picadilly Circus, and booked a flight for the next day. By the time all was said and done, it was getting late in the day before we found ourselves with some free time. So we grabbed our cameras and headed out to the British Museum, arriving at 4:30 with an hour left to see the exhibits. Having to budget our time carefully, we headed straight for Egypt.

While most museums happily display the odd trinket from a real Egyptian tomb, the British Museum seems hesitant to put out anything not measured by the ton-- although they'll cut some slack for human remains. Admission was free, although they may have been because they were celebrating their 250th anniversary this year.

Plenty of large granite statues in mint condition. "Hey look everyone, I'm an Assyrian wall relief!"

The Rosetta Stone. How nice.

So after the museum we went back to the Airport and got a few snapshots of the Heathrow passengers still waiting in line. Actually, this is two of many mummies they have on display, the first came from before recorded history and was naturally mummified by the dry desert air, and the second was the result of a formal mummification ritual.

The Tower of London, where Anne Bollyn (among many other political prisoners) was beheaded, and today where the crown jewels are on display. It was closed when we arrived, but still nice to walk around.

I swear I'm not going to change my clothes until British Airways lets us out of this stupid city. I figured another day of walking around in this humid weather and British Immigration will be deporting me on the very next flight! Besides, I'm going to go postal if I hear "mind the gap!" one more time. That's the Tower Bridge in the background, next to the Tower of London.

We decided to finish our day with a relaxing stroll through Hyde Park, which cuts a large green swath through the city of London much the same way Golden Gate Park does in San Francisco. Any resemblance ends there, as Hyde Park is almost entirely flat and covered with lawns with isolated trees scattered about. It could also use a good rain. Here's an energetic little guy, some kind of terrier, that came running up to us wanting to play. An older British couple came to fetch him, terribly apologetic for their pooch's bad behavior!

What's this? Walking from Hyde Park back to our hotel near Victoria Station, heading down Exhibition Road past the Natural History Museum, we happened by this "Earth from the Air" exhibit, which was a collection of photographs taken around the world from an airplane. We were only able to hurry around for a little before they shooed us out at 10:00pm.



So the next day, four days after we were scheduled to leave for Greece, we headed out to the airport and things went as they should, except for the plane being about three hours late [Tuesday, July 22]. All things considered, London is a pleasant and respectable city, definitely with nice things to see, particularly the British Museum. It's probably not different enough from an American city to make it worth a trip all the way out from the west coast, without heading out into the English countryside or something like that to make it interesting. But it's definitely not a bad city to be stuck in when airline arrangements go wrong.



Wallpapers
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Big Ben, with the parliament building on the left, with traffic crossing the nearby bridge over the Thames. It was a nice, warm, slightly muggy midsummer evening in London. It was around midnight when this picture was taken.
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Spooky Westminster Abbey, not too far away from Big Ben. While Big Ben is lit up proudly, Westminster Abbey is left in the dark at night.
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The Soho district, just north of Picadilly Circus, is the hot spot of London at night.
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The Tower Bridge, crossing the Thames, near the Tower of London.
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